A space to keep track of all the parts needed to build this quad.
- BumbleBee HD V3 Frame
The current V3 ships with the F7 all in one however an older F4 would work just as well and having a stack (so the ESC’s on their own board) means if one craps out you dont have to replace an expensive AIO unit.
- Beast F7 45A BLHeli-S true AIO board
Cheaper (and older) boards
- Betaflight F4 flight controller
40 amp seems to be the standard but depending on the props and motors I guess 20 would work too.
This frame is 12x12 m2 for the motors.
These are the suggested motors from iflight:
- 4S XING 1408 3600KV (I think this was V1/V2)
- 4S XING 2203.5 3600KV (currently shipped with V3 of the frame)
22 is the diameter in mm of the stator inside and 03.5 is its height.
Other motor sizes that will probably work are:
- 4S 95C 1550mAh（6-7 minutes flight time w/GoPro Hero8）
If the flight controller doesnt have a DJI port its still possible to solder it in, just make sure if you are using 6S you run though a BEC/Regulator.
The BEC is always ideal as it will give continuous clean power, the example in the video below was a 8V 3AMP (8x3 = 24 watts of power).
The air unit only needs 4 to 9 watts but its better to have more avalible to it (it will only draw what it needs). Apparently it will draw as much as 16 watts.
Common regulators are 9V 2AMP (9x2 = 18 watts)
If you are just running 4S then you can just use VBAT off the flight controller.
- The Air Unit allows you to set the region with a text file
naco.txt, set the region 1 (Country=US, Radio mode=FCC)
- Save to the root of your SD card and pop it into the Air Unit
- The Goggles allow you to set the power with a text file
- Save to the root of your SD card and pop it into the Goggles, this will allow up to
1000mwof power output (default is
You can download Betaflight Configurator from github, look for the assets drop down. Then these are the settings that worked with my F4 flight controller (OMNIBUSF4SD)
version ~ checks what firmware version is installed on the board
- Enable the UART that was linked to the DJI Air Unit above (the white and gray wires)
- Mixer=Quad X : set the motors orientation
- System configuration : I set the gyro & loop frequency to
8.00 kHzwhich is the highest. I dont think you can change the gyro speed on a F7 board.
- ESC/Motor Features : DSHOT600 is the fastest
- Board and Sensor Alignment : Yaw Degrees rotates the flight controller if you could not set it facing forward (look for an arrow on the board). Sensible values are
0, 90, 180 or 270
- Arming : 180 is sensible so you can arm it on a surface that is not level
- Airmode : turning this on will allow you to steer the quad in the air when you are letting it fall. IE: you have cut throttle.
- SBUS connected receiver (mine is FUTABA)
Check the total battery voltage with a muiltimeter, this should be the same as the voltage shown in betaflight. If its not drop the scale values until the shown voltage is the same.
Remove the props and power on the quad & radio. Then check the
preview - the quad will probably be rotating or moving slowly.
SUB TRIMto trim these as close to
1500as you can get them.
Yawmove the radio sticks to their extreme end points and use
END POINTon your radio to to trim as close as you can get to
- Arm : I use the far left switch F (AUX 1) to arm ON/OFF
HorizonI use switch C (AUX 2) to activate. Its a 3 position switch, up is
Angle(self level mode). Middle is
Horizon(Keeps pitch you set it at so you have to level it yourself). Down is
Acromode which means its all you :D
These are the on screen display values that I thought would be useful - they are overlayed into my goggles and I can drag them around so they display where I want them to be.
- Battery average cell voltage
- Batter current mAh draw
Allows you to check the correct motors spin up, this confirms the orientation of the quad (front and back) and is helpful if you did not check the flight controllers arrow and set that to face forward.
- Note this is NOT affected by
Board and Sensor Alignment->
- See CLI